Your average corn cob has 800 kernels, all lined up in 16 neat rows, and each of those kernels is a seed in its own right. While we eat sweetcorn as a vegetable, it is, technically speaking, a grass, being a variety of maize that is harvested when the ears are immature. As a result, the sugar content in the kernels is much higher than it is in other varieties of maize, which are harvested at a much later stage, once they are dry, and eaten as a grain.
When you eat the kernels whole, be that gnawing them off the cob or after shaving off the kernels first, the starch element is retained in each seed, making the dominant experience of eating fresh corn one of tender, juicy sweetness.
When the kernels are blitzed together, however, the starch is released from the individual seed coats, and they transform into a single, thickened mass. Rather than those individual pops of sweetness that are so wonderful stirred through fritter and meatball mixes or mixed into salsas and salads, these blended kernels become something altogether different: creamy and smooth, they make a great base for soufflés, polenta, soups and batters. In next week’s column, I’ll look at some of the comforting dishes you can get with those blitzed kernels, but this week I’m cooking with whole corn kernels, to keep things sweet.
Roast butternut squash with sweetcorn salsa, feta and pumpkin seeds
You’ll get more of a bite on the charred corn if you use kernels shaved off a fresh cob, but you can also make this by charring 300g frozen and defrosted kernels in a hot frying pan. Serves six as a side dish.
1 large butternut squash, cut in half lengthways, seeds scooped out, skin on and cut into 3cm x 8cm wedges
75ml olive oil, plus extra to finish
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 whole corn cobs, peeled if in husks
1 large red chilli, deseeded and finely diced
Finely grated zest of 1 large lime, plus 4 tbsp lime juice
10g coriander leaves, roughly chopped
5g mint leaves, roughly shredded
¼ tsp chilli flakes
30g pumpkin seeds, toasted
50g feta, crumbled into 1-2cm pieces
Heat the oven to 220C/425F/gas mark 7. Mix the squash with two tablespoons of oil, half a teaspoon of salt and plenty of pepper. Spread out, skin side down and well apart, on a large baking tray, and roast for 25 minutes, until cooked through and golden brown. Set aside to cool.
Put a chargrill on a high heat and ventilate your kitchen. Add the whole corn cobs and grill for about eight minutes, turning over regularly so they get well charred all over. Remove from the heat and, once cool enough to handle, hold each cob upright on a board and use a sharp knife to shave off the kernels. Put these in a bowl with the chilli, lime zest and juice, the remaining three tablespoons of oil, a quarter-teaspoon of salt, the herbs and chilli flakes. Mix and set aside.
Arrange the squash on separate plates or on one large platter. Spoon the salsa on top, sprinkle over the pumpkin seeds, dot with feta and serve, drizzled with a little extra oil.
Polenta and sweetcorn patties
These gluten-free patties are designed to be served as a snack with a squeeze of lime, some soured cream or a savoury chilli sauce, but they double up as a great breakfast dish with, say, some guacamole and a poached egg alongside or on top. Alternatively, form the mixture into small balls, dust these with the extra polenta and deep-fry, to make a very tasty canapé (if you do so, leave them to rest for an hour in the fridge before frying). Makes 12 patties, to serve six as a snack.
Shaved corn from 2 large fresh corn cobs (or 260g frozen corn kernels)
500ml full-fat milk
100g quick-cook polenta, plus about 50g extra for coating
¼ tsp ground cumin
½ tsp sweet smoked paprika
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 spring onions, trimmed and finely sliced on an angle
100g feta, broken into 1-2cm pieces
10g coriander leaves, roughly chopped
2 green chillies, deseeded and finely sliced
90ml sunflower oil
Put a large frying pan on a high heat. Once hot, add the corn and dry-fry for five to six minutes, stirring regularly, until the corn is nicely charred but still juicy. Set aside.
Pour the milk into a medium saucepan on a medium-high heat. Once it starts to steam, turn down the heat a little and add the polenta, cumin, paprika, half a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of black pepper. Cook for three to four minutes, stirring constantly, until the mix has turned the consistency of thick porridge. Stir in the charred corn, spring onion, feta, coriander and chillies only until just combined, then take off the heat.
Using two dessertspoons, form the mixture into 12 round patties 10cm wide x 1.5cm thick, each weighing about 80g. Transfer the patties to two large, parchment-lined baking trays and place another sheet on top of each. Press down slightly on the top tray, to flatten the patties, then refrigerate for an hour.
Spread out the remaining polenta on a plate and dip each patty into it, so it’s covered on all sides. Put about a third of the oil in a large, nonstick frying pan on a medium-high heat and, once hot, add as many patties as will fit in the pan. Fry for five minutes in all, turning once halfway through, until golden brown and crisp on both sides. Set aside on a plate lined with kitchen paper while you continue with the remaining patties, adding oil as required. Serve hot, as a snack.
Red rice salad with avocado and grilled corn
I like serving this as a composed salad in individual bowls, so that all the various elements remain clearly distinct. But for a more informal look, just mix the rice in a bowl with all the cooked vegetables and serve. Thanks is due to Joan McNamara from Los Angeles’ legendary Joan’s On Third restaurant. Serves four to six.
150g Camargue red rice
1 large red onion, peeled, quartered and the individual layers separated
1 tbsp groundnut oil
Salt
2 corn cobs, peeled if in husks, trimmed
6-7 spring onions, trimmed
150g edamame beans, blanched for 30 seconds and drained
80g sugar snaps, cut in half lengthways
2 medium avocados, peeled and stoned just before serving, then cut into 2cm dice
1 tbsp sesame seeds, toasted, to serve
15g coriander leaves (optional)
1 lime, cut into wedges, to serve
For the dressing
1½ tbsp white-wine vinegar
1 tbsp soy sauce
¾ tsp caster sugar
½ tsp flaked chilli
1 tbsp sesame seeds, toasted
3 tbsp groundnut oil
¾ tsp sesame oil
Fill a medium saucepan with plenty of water and place on a high heat. Once boiling, add the rice and cook for 25 minutes, until soft but still retaining a bite. Drain, refresh under cold water, set aside in a colander to dry, then transfer to a large bowl.
While the rice is cooking, use a freestanding or hand-blender to blitz all the dressing ingredients with a quarter teaspoon of salt until smooth and thick, then set aside.
Put a ridged griddle pan on a high heat and ventilate your kitchen. In a medium bowl, mix the onion with the oil and a quarter teaspoon of salt. When the pan starts to smoke, add the onion and cook for four minutes, turning over every 30 seconds, until the individual leaves are soft and charred all over, then transfer to the rice bowl.
Lay the corn cobs on the griddle and cook for six minutes, turning them every minute or so, until charred on all sides. Remove from the heat and, once cool enough to handle, hold each cob upright on a board and use a sharp knife to shave off the kernels in clumps. Add these to the rice bowl.
Lay the spring onions in the griddle and cook for six minutes, turning them over often, until charred and smoky all over. Remove from the heat, chop into 5cm-long pieces and add to the bowl.
When you’re ready to serve, add the sugar snaps and avocados to the veg bowl, pour over the dressing and toss very gently; I prefer it when the ingredients aren’t completely evenly distributed, so a minimal toss should more than do. Serve in individual portions, sprinkling each with sesame seeds and picked coriander, if you like, with a lime wedge on the side.
